THROUGH THE LENS

Corfiot photographer Julia Klimi guides us through the most beautiful parts of northern Corfu.

Northern Corfu offers verdant panoramas and choices to suit every preference. There are exotic beaches and romantic boat trips. Take invigorating dives in icy waters and rugged hikes amidst beautiful landscapes, where hidden coves and fiery sunsets await. Experience authentic festivals, savour flavours of eras past and tour centuries-old monasteries. On the eastern coast, aptly referred to as ‘Kensington-on-Sea’, luxury villas hidden within ancient olive groves serve as the abode for London’s elite.

From the main road, paths lead to small beaches adorned with white pebbles and pristine waters. Among them are Kalami, Kerasia, Kouloura, Nissaki, Aspalathra (nestled beneath the mythical Villa Rothschild), and Agni, where Nikolas and Toula’s renowned tavernas await. Renting a boat is the ultimate way to immerse oneself in the breathtaking beauty of the northeast coast. The north of the island preserves the timeless charm of old Corfu, evident in various aspects. 

One is the seaside chapel of Agios Arsenios in Kalami Bay, where the renowned writer Laurence Durrell and his wife Nancy once enjoyed their swims in the nude. Additionally, the castle perched above the harbour of Kassiopi once stood as a fortress. From this vantage point, visitors have mesmerising panoramic views. If hunger strikes, the taverna at the harbour’s edge beckons, offering delectable grilled sea bass and fresh Greek salad. As you venture inland, you will encounter picturesque villages such as Nymphes, Doukades, Rachtades, Skripero and Agrafi, each adorned with magnificent farmhouses and modest ochre-coloured houses exhibiting elements of Venetian architecture. 

Examples of rural Corfiot architecture in and around the village of Nymphes are the Askitario Monastery –one of the island’s oldest Christian monuments– and the 14th-century Church of Estavromenos on the village outskirts. There is a cave nearby where monks once lived an ascetic life. For outdoor enthusiasts, there is the mountain of Pantokratoras. At 906 metres, it is the highest mountain in Corfu. The journey along the trail from Sokraki to Old Perithia provides breathtaking vistas at every turn. If you need a companion on this adventure, seek out Dutch hiker Marcella Van Hemert. Within this untamed wilderness, birds of prey soar through the cloudless sky while vibrant yellow crocuses emerge from the limestone cliffs. 

After your exploration, indulge in a delectable meal of savoury beef paired with fine wine alongside Tsigareli (a flavourful stew of wild mountain greens cooked with hot paprika) at Foros taverna in the village square. The exotic beach of Akoli in Erimitis is a 15-minute ride by car from Agios Stefanos Sinion. There you will find white-pebbled shores, crystal-clear waters and endless silence. Rare birds and animals take refuge in the lush landscape, including otters. Nude bathers are not uncommon. And it is advisable to bring water and an umbrella. At Sidari, leave the Canal d’Amour behind you and proceed towards the village of Peroulades. Cape Drastis, one of nature’s masterpieces, is a picturesque peninsula with eerie cliffs and impressive rock formations carved by the sea and the wind.

While in Paleokastritsa, enjoy a drink at La Grotta Bar, nestled in a secluded cove. For a sweet treat, head to Dolce Café, located just outside the village of Lakones, and savour their delectable ice cream yoghurt. Don’t miss the captivating sunset over the bay of Paleokastritsa, where a remarkable rock formation emerges from the water. Legend has it that this rock was once Odysseus’ fabled ship, turned to stone by Poseidon as punishment for blinding his one-eyed son, Polyphemus.

___________________________________
TEXT & PHOTOS : JULIA KLIMI