Ancient Symposium

By merging her passion for history with her love for gastronomy, historian Mariana Kavroulaki crafts a complete experience for travellers exploring Crete.

For many, gastronomy is synonymous with indulgence. For others, it is a complete art form that commences with food preparation and culminates in its presentation. Yet, for a select few, it is a navigational map guiding us back through time, allowing us to reconnect with our roots through flavours and aromas. Among these select few is Mariana Kavroulaki, a Cretan woman for whom gastronomy signifies a journey through history, an avenue to explore the narratives and customs behind each flavour. Above all, it is about sharing around a table.

In her quaint traditional home nestled just beyond Chania’s centre, amidst olive groves, vineyards, and a courtyard blooming with aromatic plants, Mariana hosts symposia recounting culinary tales inspired by the flavours of ancient Greece. The rustic ambience of the countryside sets the stage for the culinary feast that awaits. It’s not merely a dinner but an immersion in culture spotlighting the island’s rich gastronomic heritage intertwined with its historical narrative – a true celebration of Cretan culture.

The day begins early as Mariana carefully selects ingredients from her garden and from local producers, ensuring their freshness and quality. In the heart of nature, simple yet precise hospitality unfolds as a table and chairs are arranged. Nearby, Mariana’s husband helps light the fire while she meticulously prepares ingredients, gradually adding them to intricately crafted vessels provided by potter Giorgis Dalamvelas from Margarites of Rethymnon. Slowly, the meal takes shape, featuring dishes such as bread and eggs, lentils with leeks and onions, pork baked in dough, and mussels. and wine.

As guests savour their first bites, Mariana weaves tales about the origins of the dishes and their profound significance, touching on history, commerce, society, and politics. Her storytelling blends facts with personal anecdotes, fostering a sense of intimacy and connection. She recounts how the Minoans, drawing upon the abundant bounty of the Cretan land and sea, crafted a flavourful diet teeming with nutrients, laying the groundwork for the modern Mediterranean diet. Mariana emphasises the pivotal role of nutrient-rich olive oil in Minoan cuisine, as well as the consumption of ample fruits, vegetables, legumes, and nuts. She highlights the importance of the sea, which provides a wealth of protein through fish, octopus, squid, and shellfish. Above all, she emphasises that with just one bite, guests can forge a tangible link to the past.

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TEXT & PHOTOS : STEFANOS GOGOS and MARIA PASSARIVAKI