Enchanting Wetlands

With its wild landscape, the border region of Prespes purifies the soul and tames the mind.

Two expansive lakes, Small and Great Prespa, respectively, covering an area of 300 square kilometres along the northwest border of Greece, transcend their status as internationally significant wetlands. The lakes and the surrounding mountains create a natural paradise rarely encountered elsewhere. Over half of Greece’s species of birds, mammals and amphibians claim the region as their home. They are living symbols of nature’s vitality, their icy waters having witnessed ancient legends and historical events. 

Time has a distinct rhythm here, compelling you to integrate seamlessly into this unique and peculiar world. You awaken, enveloped by the melodic sounds of cattle bells and the scent of pristine earth. Inhaling the pure, crisp air –unyielding even in the warmth of June– you find yourself immersed in an untouched pastoral atmosphere.

A generous neighbour presents you with fresh eggs. Nearby, a shepherd leads his herd on its morning stroll. A little further, horses graze freely. With a hot cup of coffee cradled in your hands, you observe life at higher altitudes, absorbing tales of bear sightings and wild boars wandering ever closer to the village in the evenings this year.
 

The tour of Small Prespa leads to beautiful villages such as Mikrolimni amidst oak and cedar forests, Agios Germanos with its famous traditional watermill, and Agios Achillios, a tiny island that connects to land via a 650-metre-long bridge. The settlement is home to a 10th-century basilica of the same name (Agios Achillios). Agios is Greek for “saint” – many locations in Greece bear the name of saints. Other noteworthy villages in the area are Oxya, Karyes, Lefkonas, Kallithea, Platy, Lemos, Pyli and Mileonas, whose mudbrick houses are abandoned. Vrondero is the last village before Albania. 

Next, embark on a distinct journey to Great Prespa, the largest lake in the Balkans. Nestled at an altitude of 853 metres, it rests amidst the clouds. Its waters meander freely across three countries: Greece, North Macedonia, and Albania. Stop at Psarades (the name means “fishermen”), the sole Greek village on its shores. Locals will tell you that their Plaves (traditional wooden boats) are their homes and the lake is their life. They greet you with a plate of Grivadi (the largest fish in both lakes) and share memories from the old days. Wander amidst the reeds and diverse plant life of Prespes National Park. 

Take a boat and tour the Byzantine hermitages of Great Prespa, once utilised by monks centuries ago. Drive through expansive fields renowned for their beans, forage for wild mushrooms in the lush forests, and discover the art of Tsipouro (a spirit of 40-45% alcohol content) distillation. Observe locals tending to their cows and marvel at hundreds of birds. Here, Dalmatian pelican (Pelecanus crispus) form the world’s largest breeding colony of said species. Finally, listen to the lake’s sounds, sensing that this place soothes the soul.

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TEXT & PHOTOS : STEFANOS GOGOS / MARIA PASSARIVAKI