Life in Colour

Agiasos, a mountain village in Lesvos, is like something plucked from an impressionist work of art.

Colour, art and tradition are words most often used to describe Agiasos in travel memoirs. The village aesthetic takes inspiration from the hinterlands of Lesvos. Resting at an altitude of 475 metres on Mount Olympus, defining features of this artistic village are houses of stone with tiled roofs and colourful doors and windows, quaint cobbled paths overshadowed by pergolas, and traditional cafes and shops filled with ceramics, wood carvings and other folk art. The village resides among pines, firs and olive trees where streams bubble.

There is an old, shadowy forest of chestnuts through which hiking trails wind. In the heart of the village stands the Byzantine church of Panagia of Agiasos, housing the miraculous icon of the Virgin Mary of Vrefokratousa. It is said to have been brought from Jerusalem by Agathon, a monk, and bears the inscription, “Mother of God Agia Sion.” According to some, Agiasos derives from Agia Sion. On August 15, the inhabitants of Lesvos flock here on foot as pilgrims to the Holy Mother. To witness or participate in this long and solemn procession is moving. In Agiasos, one must visit its three museums: the Byzantine Museum, the Folklore Museum, and the Carnival Museum. The second of the three houses a rich collection of costumes, embroideries, utensils and artefacts. Another must is the Reading Room, a historical and cultural association founded during the Turkish occupation. Their library houses an impressive collection of over 25,000 titles!

Wander the narrow streets and drink coffee in the square of the Agora beneath the old plane tree or at the Kafentaria, perhaps the oldest traditional cafe on the island, dating back to 1879. Sample local delicacies such as Ladotyri cheese, Avronies (wild asparagus) with eggs, Trahana Hachles (Greek wheat pasta shaped like boats) and Kainari (a tea of spices and herbs said to cure a common cold). All are available at Stavri Tou Papeli, a cafe whose reputation is widespread beyond the boundaries of Lesvos. For the adventurous, climb to the castle to enjoy breathtaking views.

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TEXT : KALLIA KASTANI
PHOTOS : PERIKLES MERAKOS