A Nautical Heritage

An endless tale, an authentic Greek tradition that persists in resisting the passage of time, comes to life in the shipyard of Agios Isidoros in Samos.

Old tools, abandoned buildings, and weathered hulls basking in the sun serve as remnants of eras long past, when the air hummed with the maritime shouts of Heave!, Slack!, Steady! and Haul Away! – the last command to guide the completed vessel into the open sea. Yet, amidst the robustness of wood and varnish, the swirling clouds of sawdust, and the nascent hulls awaiting their final shape, an ongoing narrative emerges. Though devoid of past grandeur, the saga persists, echoing the sea’s breadth and the fragrance of pines ever poised for the next voyage.

Samos has been a significant naval and shipbuilding centre in the Aegean since ancient times. Its more recent era began around 1720 when the first hull was constructed in Marathokampos. The coves and small ports of the island each had a shipyard, all renowned for their well-crafted and durable wooden vessels made from Samian pine. The shipyard of Agios Isidoros is the island’s sole remaining one, carrying on this long-standing tradition as one of the oldest conventional shipyards in Greece that is still active.

In a lush location near the sea, the abandoned hulls and buildings narrate tales of small boats loaded with vines, wines, and hides that ploughed the Aegean, supporting the island’s economy. These sites permeated with the passion of self-taught shipwrights who were craftsmen and sailors, treating each skiff as a living entity. With responsibility and hard manual labour, they would send them off on the waves, certain they would withstand the seas. The shipyard was a vital part of the local community. It had its own language and legends. Superstitions were strictly observed during the construction process; vessels were always oriented facing the sun head-on so as to never be in the shadows. A particular celebration was the launching ceremony of each new vessel, accompanied by blessings and festive music.

The dances did not last. Since the early 20th century, the replacement of wood with iron and plastic, along with industrialization, put an end to the heyday of traditional shipyards. Most in Greece have now become deserted. In 2013, the art of shipbuilding became part of the Intangible Cultural Heritage. But as long as there are craftsmen, the final Haul Away! has not yet been heard.

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TEXT : CHRISTINA KATSANTONI
PHOTOS : PERIKLES MERAKOS